Kamnik

A medieval town at the foot of the Kamnik Alps, 25 minutes from Ljubljana: the Mali grad chapel, Šutna street and the gateway to Velika Planina.

Ljubljana's medieval rival

In the 12th century, when the Counts of Andechs made it their Carniolan stronghold, Kamnik ranked among the most important towns on Slovenian soil — a direct rival of Ljubljana, and still one of the country's oldest towns. What remains is a dense, low-slung old town beneath the walls of the Kamnik-Savinja Alps: pedestrian Šutna street lines up burgher facades, old shop signs and workshops all the way to the foot of the Mali grad rock.

Mali grad, Veronika and the old town

Mali grad is Kamnik's symbol: a rare two-storey Romanesque chapel perched on its spur, and the legend of Countess Veronika — half woman, half snake — still guarding her treasure beneath the rock; she even features on the town's coat of arms. Add Zaprice Castle and its museum, the old library of the Franciscan monastery, and the climb to the Stari grad ruins for the best view over the rooftops and the Alps. Kamnik is also the birthplace of General Rudolf Maister, a key figure of Slovenian history.

National costumes, Kamfest and summer Fridays

Kamnik lives by its gatherings: every September, the Days of National Costumes — Slovenia's largest folklore event — fill the streets with parades, brass bands and embroidery from across the country. In summer, the Kamfest festival takes over Mali grad, and street food sets up on Friday evenings in Evropa Park. More ideas in our guide to Kamnik and its surroundings.

Around: Velika Planina, Volčji Potok, Kamniška Bistrica

From the neighbouring Kamniška Bistrica valley — worth a stop in itself, with its emerald spring beneath the cliffs — the cable car climbs to Velika Planina and its herdsmen's village; our hiking guide covers the routes. On the edge of town, the Volčji Potok Arboretum — Slovenia's most visited botanical park — erupts with tulips in spring, and the Snovik thermal baths sit up the Tuhinj valley. Skiers head straight across to Krvavec.

Getting there

Regular buses and trains from Ljubljana (25-40 minutes). Half a day covers the old town; a full day adds Velika Planina or the arboretum. In September, book early if you are aiming for the costume weekend.

Photo: Mateja Jausovec — CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons.