Velika Planina, in one word: magical. An alpine plateau at 1,600 m altitude, 5 km² of rolling pasture, about 50 wooden shepherd huts (stanovi) with thatched roofs, 360° views over three mountain ranges, and a 2-hour hike accessible to everyone. I discovered this place in 2018 and return every three months.
Where? How to Get There?
Velika Planina is located 30 km northeast of Ljubljana, between Kamnik and Domžale. About 1 hour 15 minutes from Ljubljana by car. Two options: 1) Cable car from Kamnik (€10 return, 10 minutes) — the easy and recommended way. 2) On foot in 2-3 hours from Kamnik village — for the hardcore. I'd recommend the cable car.
The Perfect Route (2 hours, Easy)
Park in Kamnik or near the cable car station. Take the cable car up (€10) to 1,600 m. At the top, follow the 'Velika Planina' signs for about 5 km — well-marked and perfectly flat (you're on a plateau). You'll cross pastures, sparse woodland and encounter herds of Slovenian red cattle. Halfway through, you'll reach Gostilna Andreja, the plateau's best restaurant.
Gostilna Andreja: The Gastronomic Highlight
This is where I truly understood Slovenian cuisine. Set menu: beetroot soup, homemade pork schnitzel, homemade dessert. Price: €11-13 all-in (with bread, butter, coffee). Quality: 5 stars. Atmosphere: pure Slovenian mountain. Portions are generous, service impeccable, and you'll sit beside actual shepherds. Open daily except Mondays.
The Shepherd Huts (Stanovi)
The 50+ huts scattered across the plateau are a marvel of Slovenian vernacular architecture. Small wooden buildings with thatched roofs, tiny windows (for insulation), very spartan interiors. Some are inhabited by shepherds in summer (May-September), others are open-air museums. Walking randomly between the huts is an activity in itself — you feel like you're in 1820.
When to Visit
June-September is the best time: green pasture, shepherds on the plateau, restaurants open, stable weather. Avoid June weekends (too crowded). July-August: busy but peak shepherd season. May and October: possible but colder and fewer services open.
Practical Info
Hiking boots: recommended but trainers are fine, it's very easy. Bring: water (2L), sun protection, jacket (it can be cold at altitude). Total time: 2.5 hours hiking + 1 hour meal + 30 minutes cable car return = 4 hours total. Budget: €10 cable car + €12 restaurant + free parking = €22.
Why It's Special
Velika Planina isn't just a hike — it's a journey back in time. It's one of the few places in Slovenia where you can see how shepherds still live (and have for centuries). The absence of roads, electricity in the huts, shops, keeps it on the margins of modernity. And that's precisely what makes it Slovenia's most beautiful alpine hike.
Patrick Faust
French expat in Slovenia since 2004. Founder of e-Slovénie.